La-Co FAQ

Cool Gel is a gel that is easily sprayed onto heat sensitive surfaces when soldering or brazing. This amazing gel protects the surface that it is sprayed on, and does not allow the surface to be burned.

No, Cool Gel will not leave any stains or residue on dry wall, stainless steel, etc. If it is not wiped off it will evaporate in 24-48 hours.

No, Slic-tite will wash off your hands with soap and water. If it gets on your clothes, Slic-tite will come out with regular laundry detergent. Like any other chemical on your clothes, try to wash your clothes as soon as possible to get the best results.

No, Slic-tite was designed to be removed with little-to-no effort even 50 years after it was applied, making it a virtually no set thread sealant. Unlike the competition, it will remain soft inside the threaded connection. Any material outside the threaded connection and exposed to air will get hard over time.

No, LA-CO Regular Flux is lead-free.

LA-CO Regular Flux is an all-weather flux. Unlike other fluxes, LA-CO Regular Flux will not melt and become runny in the summer or freeze and become unusable in the winter.

Yes. LA-CO Regular Flux is water-soluble, and will prevent flux pitting corrosion from occurring on the inside of copper pipe. It will thoroughly wash through and leave the system clean and free of flux and will not clog aerators, tankless water heater lines, or other systems.

When LA-CO Regular Flux is applied on copper pipe; it can eventually induce a slight green coloring on the pipe. To prevent the green color from appearing, simply wipe the joint after soldering. This will remove residue and make your copper joint look great. The green coloring is due to oxidation. LA-CO Regular Flux cleans copper so well that the copper oxidizes quickly in order to prevent corrosion. LA-CO Regular Flux is water soluble, and it will prevent flux pitting corrosion from occurring on the inside of the copper pipe.

Once the leak has been located, pull a vacuum, recovering any remaining refrigerant. Mechanically clean the area with a knife or stainless steel brush. Do not use sand cloth or other products that will potentially leave a residue. If sand cloth is used, the epoxy will not stick to the pipe but to the abrasive residue left behind. Heat adjacent to the leak (Do not put the flame directly on HEAT-SEAL STIK as it will melt). Test the HEAT-SEAL STIK by touching it to the metal as the flame is heating the surface. Keep the flame adjacent to the leak and once the HEAT-SEAL STIK begins to melt, rub thoroughly over the leak until covered. Allow the epoxy to cool to room temperature or shock with a wet rag to cool. Test the system with sure chek, VISU-GLOW, or ALERT leak detectors to verify the leak has been repaired. Recharge the system. Remove cured epoxy from the stik with a knife before next use. Cured epoxy cannot be reused.

Yes, but you must cut the cured end of the HEAT-SEAL STIK off before using again.